Routeed Ducks and Other Cajun Traditions: A Taste of Heritage
Routeed Ducks and Other Cajun Traditions: A Taste of Heritage
In the ABOUT section of my blog, I mentioned I lived on Grand Isle, Louisiana for a number of years when I was young. It’s where I made many Cajun friends and enjoyed the bounties of the Gulf of Mexico. When the weather started to turn cold, there was a great number of water foul that would come to rest in the marshes in the area. It was during one of those winters that I was introduced to a wonderful duck dinner that was wonderful. LaLa Cheramie had gone hunting several days before in the Barateria marsh and had managed to bag several mallard ducks. He was good friends with my parents, Lamar and Billie, and would often stop by the house with some kind of seafood. This is when and where I learned about preparing and cooking duck Cajun style from LaLa and his wife Betty. This is the Cajun story about how to prepare ducks as best as I can remember.
When it comes to Cajun cooking, the flavors are as rich and layered as the stories behind them. Every recipe carries a bit of history, a touch of folklore, and a whole lot of love. One of the more intriguing Cajun traditions involves a dish often referred to as “routeed ducks” or “poulet faisanonné”. Though the preparation might raise eyebrows today, it’s a window into a time when resourcefulness and bold flavors defined the cuisine.
The Story of the Hanging Duck
Deep in the bayous of Louisiana, old Cajun hunters would clean and hang ducks by their necks to age them before cooking. This wasn’t just for show—it was a method of tenderizing the meat and developing its flavor. The term “routeed” comes from a local dialect of Cajun French, loosely meaning “aged” or “ripened.” This aging process, though rare now, reflected the community’s respect for the game they hunted and their commitment to making every meal unforgettable.
For some, the dish is also called “poulet faisanonné,” meaning “pheasant-like chicken.” The phrase speaks to the technique of preparing duck in a way that mimics the rich, gamey flavors of pheasant—a bird that wasn’t always easy to come by in the wetlands of Louisiana.
A Friendly Encounter With Routeed Ducks
If you ask anyone familiar with this dish, you’ll likely hear a story of an elder family member recounting the steps with both pride and a bit of mischief in their voice. “You hang the duck ‘til it drops,” they might say, laughing at your expression. While modern cooks might skip the hanging part, the essence of the dish—its bold, smoky, and earthy flavors—remains.
Authentic Cajun Duck and Andouille Gumbo
Let’s bring this tradition into the kitchen with an authentic Cajun recipe that honors the spirit of routeed ducks: a Duck and Andouille Gumbo. This dish captures the rich, layered flavors Cajun cooking is known for, using smoked duck and spicy andouille sausage.
Ingredients:
- 1 whole duck, cleaned and quartered (smoked for authentic flavor)
- 1 lb andouille sausage, sliced
- ¾ cup vegetable oil
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 medium onions, diced
- 2 green bell peppers, diced
- 3 celery stalks, diced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 10 cups chicken or duck stock
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tsp dried thyme
- 1 tsp cayenne pepper (or to taste)
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 1 cup chopped green onions
- ½ cup fresh parsley, chopped
- Cooked white rice for serving
- Filé powder (optional, for thickening)
Instructions:
- Smoke or Roast the Duck:
If you have access to a smoker, lightly smoke the duck to add depth to its flavor. Otherwise, roast it in the oven until just cooked through. - Make the Roux:
In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Slowly whisk in the flour, stirring constantly, until the roux turns a deep brown color. This step is key to the gumbo’s flavor, so take your time! - Add the Holy Trinity:
Stir in the onions, bell peppers, and celery. Cook until the vegetables are softened. Add the garlic and cook for an additional minute. - Build the Gumbo:
Gradually add the stock, stirring to incorporate the roux. Bring to a simmer and add the bay leaves, thyme, cayenne, salt, and black pepper. - Simmer the Duck and Sausage:
Add the duck pieces and andouille sausage to the pot. Simmer gently for about 1-2 hours, or until the duck is tender and the flavors have melded. - Finish the Gumbo:
Stir in the green onions and parsley. If desired, sprinkle filé powder over the gumbo for thickening and additional flavor. - Serve:
Ladle the gumbo over hot cooked rice in bowls. Garnish with extra parsley if you’d like.
A Taste of Tradition
Whether you’re recreating the spirit of routeed ducks or simply enjoying a hearty Duck and Andouille Gumbo, Cajun cooking is about more than just food—it’s about community, storytelling, and the joy of turning humble ingredients into something extraordinary.
So, next time you sit down to a bowl of gumbo, think of those old Cajun hunters and their hanging ducks. It’s a reminder that every dish has a story, and every story is worth sharing.
Bon appétit, y’all!